Staycation Islay

I started DistilleryTours.scot nearly three years ago, in the hope that I’d be able to promote Scotland’s distilleries and encourage whisky tourism, not only because I’m a proud Scot, but also because I love whisky and am captivated by the craft and passion of distilling.

Promoting whisky tourism inevitably connects you with a lot of distilleries and the passionate and knowledgeable people who work there, a fun and fascinating part of the job that I’m delighted to do. But the pandemic has restricted us all, and I’ve not had the opportunity to meet distillery teams on-the-ground as much as I’d like.

The Isle of Islay

Earlier this summer though, we were delighted to see Scottish Government restrictions change, and I was fortunate enough to visit the beautiful Isle of Islay on Scotland’s west coast.

Islay is a small island, but a Mecca for whisky distilleries. The journey from the most northerly distillery, Bunnahabhain, to the most southerly, Laphroig, takes around 40 minutes by car – and they’re just two of the nine distilleries available to visit.

Islay is one of the most peaceful and beautiful places in Scotland, so my wife and I were keen to experience it close-up. Travelling on the CalMac ferry from Kennacraig, and staying at the excellent Islay Hotel at Port Ellen, we were lucky enough to hire bikes locally from Jim at Islay Cycles. After some brilliant advice on cycle routes, we took the Three Distilleries path, visiting the Ardbeg, Lagavulin and Laphroig distilleries.

The views were stunning and we found ourselves stopping every few hundred yards to take it all in. As we were on a cycle path, the cars were few and far between, but even on the roads, this is a quiet and congestion-free island.

We started at Ardbeg, the furthest from Port Ellen on the Three Distilleries path, and worked our way back. Ardbeg Distillery’s location is incredible, looking out to the sea and towards Kintyre. The Ardbeg distillery reminded me of a gothic house - a cathedral to whisky - and is now one of my favourite distilleries in the world.

Our next stop was the Lagavulin Distillery, who kindly offered us water as the hot weather and cycle ride had left us parched. But we weren’t there for the water! We tried the 16-year-old double matured distillers edition – now a firm favourite in the Riddell house – and were delighted to look round the beautiful site and distillery. The team there were brilliant, their attitude, passion, knowledge and just general warmth and kindness put a smile on my face even now.

Sadly, the Laphroig Distillery was closed when we arrived, and we ruminated on not pedalling faster, perhaps aided by the previous Lagavulin dram. Laphroig has another beautiful outlook though, with the sea almost lapping at the door. If you're visiting remember to have a good read at the Opinions Welcome wall - the Distillery invited consumers to tell them their thoughts on the taste of Laphroig and some of them will give you a good belly laugh, all good fun.

The following day we booked a tour of the Ardnahoe Distillery in the north of the island, which we agreed was worth five times the ticket price for the views alone. This incredible Distillery looks north towards the Isle of Jura, and we were so taken with it, that we bought a print from Konrad Borowski of the distillery with the Paps of Jura in the background, which now hangs proudly in our home. The Ardnahoe team were highly knowledgeable, and the experience was topped off with some exceptional whisky, cakes and coffee, and we look forward to returning soon.

Our tour of Islay ended at the Bunnahabhain Distillery – again set in some of the most amazing scenery in Scotland. We came for a tasting – please do book in advance if you’re going too – and enjoyed a few drams. You might, like me, need a hand to get out of the giant deck chair at the Distillery, but only after you have taken in the wonder and tranquillity of the surroundings.

They say that the Isle of Islay is like a drug – once you visit, you’ll want to come back again and again. We’re already planning our next trip now!

For more inspiration on a trip to Islay, check out our Jura and Northern Islay and Southern Islay tours. Please check timings and book your distillery tours or tastings before you go.